The collector's spirit
14.02.2025 Jewellery & Watches, Shopping, Jewellery & Watches, LifestyleClément Finet about Phillips’ Perpetual quest for the best
“You really got me thinking!”
Remarked a client discovering the fascinating world of wristwatch collecting during a brief conversation with Clément Finet. Inspired, the client later invited Finet to his chalet for further guidance in curating his own bespoke collection.
Clément accompanies collectors daily in the art of collecting, an intellectual pursuit requiring discernment and taste. While clients usually have their own criteria, Clément’s expertise provides invaluable insight that encourages reflection.
A world apart – like Gstaad
“Many of our international clients are, in fact, Gstaaders”, notes Finet, Senior Watch Specialist and Manager of the Phillips Perpetual boutique located in the lobby of the Gstaad Palace. Each watch they carry has been carefully selected and is a true horological wonder. It is one thing to be able to see them, but it is another to be able to hold them while listening to Finet’s explanations.
The iconic neo-vintage era
Although exceptional timepieces were crafted at every era, the 1980s and 1990s really stand out as a “charnière”. Indeed, it is at that time that arose the first true independent watchmakers, people like Daniel Roth, Michel Parmigiani or François-Paul Journe … It is in great part thanks to them that modern watchmaking is still up and standing today. Their early creations are amongst the most interesting to collect today as they offer a perfect mix of wearability and horological mastery, not to mention the patina that adds to their charm.
The magnificence of the quest
Finet willingly describes himself as an “assistant collector”: a trustworthy expert with a collector’s mindset out to help watch enthusiasts shape collections of their own.
What makes vintage and neovintage watch collecting so fun and exciting is the unpredictability of the hunt. Collectors don’t know what to expect (other than great watches) in the upcoming auctions (indeed, Phillips in Association with Bacs and Russo is best known for their incredible feats at auction), while auctioneers and specialists alike never know when or where the next “gem” is going to surface … But when one does, a whole new process kicks in. Starting from there, it is all about meticulous research! Is the watch they’ve found what they think it is? What’s its story (provenance)? Is it all original? All information that might look like small details to a newbie but that is in fact of the utmost importance for a specialist or a watch connoisseur.
Knowledge and quality are key
While prices have, in fact, soared over the last decade, speculation should not be the end goal, insists Finet. As he says, prices can and will fluctuate, but there is one thing that never does, and that is quality!
Clement observes that collectors have become more and more knowledgeable over the years and that it is the niche brands that have become collectors’ favourites – and for a good reason.
In the end, it should always be about pleasure
Although knowledge and quality are key, pleasure should remain the determining factor.
Indeed, not all watch lovers have the aim to build a watch collection. Some have the habit of buying watches for birthdays and anniversaries, while others might just want to “pull the trigger” to celebrate a major deal or just because they’ve fallen in love with one …
EDT